Monday, May 27, 2013

A Fitting Post

Readers, I am in the midst of planning my lecture this weekend at HandMade on Getting a Great Fit. It's a fascinating process.

The Patterns
I am using two patterns from two different companies, chosen because they are generic enough to use as a sloper for adjusting other patterns.
2648
This pattern Simplicity 2648 is an Amazing Fit style which means it has different pattern pieces for different cup sizes, and different skirt shapes. Personally, one glance at it told me it was not amazing at all, but that’s to be expected and we’ll look at what you can do to make it amazing after all.
B4443 
Butterick B4443 is a great basic dress pattern. Unfortunately without a sleeve option. 
 
What these patterns have in common - princess seams. I love me a bodice with princess seams. No cut gets a better fit. In today's world where we don't mess around with body shapers and girdles and corsets, our torsos are not rock hard, reliable, smooth plinths on which to mould a bodice, like they were up until the 1970's. So, a princess seam allows you to follow the contours of the real body underneath.
This morning we had fitting number 2 for the B4443, and it went like a dream. I am still working on how best to present the process in such a short time, Probably photos of the various bodice pieces side my side to show their development through the fittings. These I will post here when they are done and the lecture is done. :)
Simplicity 2648 is yet to have its second fitting. The first one turned up a lot of alterations needed, which is what I expected.
Come Monday, I promise to share my results with you all. :)

12 comments:

  1. ooo - interesting. I have 2648 coming up in my to-do list, so I look forward to reading your comments.

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  2. Princess seams seem to flatter the fattest figure. Fitting is something I should have learnt as a youngster, but we just worked straight from patterns. I think I missed out on a dress-making step and am full of admiration when older women talk about draughting patterns by eye. Maybe I should plan my next trip to Wellington around one of your workshops!

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    1. They also fit people with narrow shoulders, sloped shoulders, rounded backs, any bust size, any waist size so yup, they are very useful. It's not about flattery, I don't align flattering and slimming as meaning the same thing. It's about getting a fit that sits properly, which is flattering to everyone. :)
      Oh do! I'll organise a weekend course around you if you want to come up. We have a couple of people who come up regularly for classes. :)

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    2. "It's about getting a fit that sits properly, which is flattering to everyone" - that's pretty much it. :-)
      Looking forward to your further stories!

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  3. Ooh sounds interesting. I too like the princess seam and that will be my next TNT challenge. I am interested to see why you don't feel the amazing fit pattern is amazing? You commented on my blog about making pattern fitting using a muslin. I guess I like to work it out on paper first. Also - with the amount of paper I had to add to the pattern to get it my size, I wouldn't have known what to cut with the muslin in the first place. Fit is still quite a learning curve for me. Wish I lived across the water so I could attend your lecture!

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    1. Beaj, all will be revealed when I get the photos sorted. As for muslin vs paper, you get to know your body better by working on it, not theorising about it on paper, so if you cut that first redraft in calico, tack it and fit it inside out, you will get much faster feedback, and you can draw on it. Which I think I said on your blog! I am a bit of an evangelist on the subject! :)
      I do wish you could come to it too, and the course lined up to follow. I will try and capture as much of it as possible on video or photos to post online however.

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  4. Looking forward to the big reveal, this is a great tease!! I'm sure ill learn even more from you :-)

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    1. HI Winnie! Slow to respond, sorry, I am still catching up on myself! It was a great lecture, I am told, and I had fun delivering it so good result. No photos of it in duration, I totally forgot about that! But I have the slides and can write around them, they do reveal a fair bit, I feel. I'll get onto it in the next day or so, promise!

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  5. Fantastic. I have traced both of these patterns for a princess seam sloper. I was about to compare them, knowing it is highly likely that I will have to raise the bust curve, narrow shoulder, forward head.. I'll wait for your post before making a start. Cant wait!

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  6. Oh cool I wanna do a princess seam dress and its on the list. The List! LOL. I thoroughly look forward to your next installment - you tease you!

    PS I hope the hip isn't still bothering you?

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    1. Hi Emily! Oh the hip is fine after all. Weird that. I am way behind on my posting about fitting. I will make an effort, promise!

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  7. Princess seams are my nemisis...

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