Showing posts with label HandMade 2013. Show all posts
Showing posts with label HandMade 2013. Show all posts

Saturday, June 8, 2013

A Fitting Lecture Part 1

It's been a week since my first lecture at HandMade, and I've finally caught up with all the work that got behind the week before (mammoth haberdashery order placed today, it read like a telephone book!) so I can start putting some posts together.
It turns out, one can communicate an impressive amount of information in an hour. I was really surprised. I thought I would run out of time, especially as I tend to go off on tangents, but it was all fine.

So, here is a rundown on the first part.

 Normal vs Average

Almost noone fits patterns out of the envelope. If you do, I am genuinely thrilled for you. But it is rare. When I run an average on the daily take divided by the number of sales, the figure I get is rarely the same as a single individual sale. It's the same for patterns. They try to be average. This is NOT the same as normal. Normal implies that if you don't fit the pattern, you are not normal. But, it just means that you are not average. That has to be a good thing, surely!?!
So, your rounded shoulders or sway back or long waist are normal, because normal people have these things; or some combination of the many figure variations comprising a human body.
Are you with me so far? Good. So, step one - STOP JUDGING YOUR BODY. Because, while you are beating up on your big bust or curvy thighs or narrow shoulders, you are unable to learn anything useful about how to dress them. FACT.
Get to know the body you have, the way it is and the way it isn't. You don't have to love it or loathe it, just accept it and learn it and you will be just fine. And if it changes, learn the changes.
So, that establishes Fitting Ground Zero for me.

Zen and the limitations of language

Language is an interesting thing. I learned to fit by drawing on my dolls when I was a child, learning how the sections I made could be rendered in fabric. Eventually I started experimenting with my own clothes, and by 15 I had extended this to costumes. Noone ever asked what I was doing or how or why so I never needed any words. Until about four years ago, I was never called on to explain much at all about what I was doing. Then I discovered sewing blogs, and a world where people talked about and wrote about sewing. Wow, all these new terms! FBA, SBA, so many adjustment terms for patterns I had never heard of. Yes, I knew how to cut a muslin or tweak a pattern to fit a woman with minimal measurements, but I couldn't explain how or why I knew it. I've been working to wrap words around what I do, and the lecture was a part of that journey, but even now I often resort to those 'technical terms' like " thingamewhatsit" all too often!

After a time feeling like a fool for not knowing even the simplest terms, it dawned on me that what I knew was more than valid. On Project Runway, the designers applied tape to their dressforms like I drew on my dolls, to understand how the construction lines are rendered into fabric pieces. I was a draper, and I didn't even know it. But having said that, there is a bunch of technical stuff around draping that I may or may not know, but what I do know is I know quite enough to more than get by, and so can you.
I want you to forget everything you have learned from tutorials about doing FBAs or any other technical pattern adjustment, and roll with me for a bit. Because, a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing, and my observation of pattern adjustments such as FBAs is that they can fry your brain, cause excessive chocolate consumption, and there is no substitute for learning by getting hands on with your good self.

source Just how long do you think a Shaolin monk spends on the internet trying to learn how to do that stuff?

I know, you're thinking, well MrsC as you call yourself, that's all very well for you to say with your doll drawing and 35 years mucking about with fitting, but I am just trying to find out what to do, all right? And would you pleas stop ranting and putting up random pictures you googled and get to the freaking point???
To which I say, because I can, that I am going to leave you in suspense until the next post. Partly because I have drunk a glass of wine and it may all go Bad, partly because MrC watching the France/NZ rugby test in the same room is causing me to want to go to bed (sorry, I loathe televised sport, it makes as much sense to me as porn - i.e. doing it yourself is one thing, but watching other people do it is just weird) but mostly because my presentation is in my office and I need it to get to the actual point.
So, until tomorrow when I will return with, hopefully, some actual content! MWAH MWAH!
Best  MWAH MWAH pic of me ever!



Monday, May 27, 2013

A Fitting Post

Readers, I am in the midst of planning my lecture this weekend at HandMade on Getting a Great Fit. It's a fascinating process.

The Patterns
I am using two patterns from two different companies, chosen because they are generic enough to use as a sloper for adjusting other patterns.
2648
This pattern Simplicity 2648 is an Amazing Fit style which means it has different pattern pieces for different cup sizes, and different skirt shapes. Personally, one glance at it told me it was not amazing at all, but that’s to be expected and we’ll look at what you can do to make it amazing after all.
B4443 
Butterick B4443 is a great basic dress pattern. Unfortunately without a sleeve option. 
 
What these patterns have in common - princess seams. I love me a bodice with princess seams. No cut gets a better fit. In today's world where we don't mess around with body shapers and girdles and corsets, our torsos are not rock hard, reliable, smooth plinths on which to mould a bodice, like they were up until the 1970's. So, a princess seam allows you to follow the contours of the real body underneath.
This morning we had fitting number 2 for the B4443, and it went like a dream. I am still working on how best to present the process in such a short time, Probably photos of the various bodice pieces side my side to show their development through the fittings. These I will post here when they are done and the lecture is done. :)
Simplicity 2648 is yet to have its second fitting. The first one turned up a lot of alterations needed, which is what I expected.
Come Monday, I promise to share my results with you all. :)

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Shortest ever post - why I am so quiet

Hello all. No I have not succumbed to a lurgy or joined the foreign legion (although I could get into that pressing lines into the backs of their shirts thing)
The simple reality is - stocktake over Easter followed by opening A SECOND SHOP.
In the matter of stocktake - a HUGE thank you to my many darling local friends who turned up to count the heck out of stuff for us on Good Friday. Joy, Madame O, Sarah, Shell, Tommy, Eileen - so many, you guys totally rock.

As for the matter of THE SECOND SHOP, WELL! It's been as exciting as opening the first, without that awful feeling of having just ruined my life that my inner critic brought to the first proceedings. My inner critic is now sitting on the couch knitting, with cat's arse lips saying, "Well, young lady, you always do what you want, I wash my hands of you" HALLELUJAH!
My second shop, to be called Made Marion (not Made on Marion) is in the other end of the city. Our shop is in the arty, alternative quarter, whereas the new one is in the business and government district. This also means that there are many many many women who knit, sew and do needlework, and a few guys too no doubt. Currently a few brave souls march up our way at lunchtime, but we were getting begged regularly to open a second shop. The previous owners had a shop down there too, and so we know it works.
And it opens on 15 April. Currently the space doesn't actually exist, which is ...exciting? A wall is yet to go up, carpet to go down, paint to be painted and plastering to be plastered and of course not in  that order.
Soo, come 15 April, Made Marion will be at your service (should you live in Wellington!) at Shop 1, Level 2, Capital on the Quay, 260 Lambton Quay, Wellington.
Hmm, not that short a post really. I am looking forward to getting on with my black and white border fabric, my winter makes for the Sewlution Jar, and working on my lectures for HandMade in June.
More on that, later! :)